How To Use Scent To Your Advantage
Commercial Colognes
Egoiste by Chanel
Egoiste was one of the last truly original fragrances for men that Chanel produced. Everything that followed this release has been a relatively obvious crowd-pleaser (though that’s not necessarily a bad thing). The combination of sandalwood and rose has a spicy, hypnotic effect.
John Varvatos by John Varvatos
A surprisingly unique concoction for a relatively commercial label. Smells like the interior of a gentleman’s club: all leather, smoke and booze. Unabashedly masculine.
Obsession by Calvin Klein
This classic has to be included for posterity’s sake, not least because CK’s recent releases are yet to touch the greatness of this game-changer from 1986. Deliberately provocative, it contains a mix of lavender, amber and musk. It’s so addictive that in a (rather bizarre) experiment, animals in Bronx zoo were found to interact with it for longer than any other scent. Zookeepers now use the stuff as bait for wild cats.
M7 by YSL
I consider this the blueprint for every Tom Ford fragrance (he was at the helm of YSL at the time). As is the case with Ford’s eponymous eaux, this Oud-based scent is deeply sensual and dark. Seek out a bottle of the original fragrance and not last year’s re-launch.
Dior Homme Intense by Christian Dior
Darker than the original Dior Homme, this variation has an almost menacingly sexual quality about it. Iris still takes centre stage but ambrette, vetiver and cedar amp up the masculinity.
Envy by Gucci
Another creation from Mr Ford, this time from his sojourn at Gucci (clearly the man knows a thing or two about sexy). A sweet oriental fragrance, Envy often feels like an homage to Obsession. There’s a lot going on here: incense, patchouli, amber…as well as a spicy kick in the form ginger, nutmeg and pimento.
Niche Colognes
Fetish Pour Homme by Roja Dove
The latest offering from Professeur de Parfums Roja Dove is a positively animal mix of opulent leathers and smoke. While the composition is suitably titled, there’s an unexpected sweetness somewhere in the mix (Vanilla, Jasmine) that suggests the wearer may have sensitive side. Otherwise it’s pure filth. In a good way
Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens
A personal favourite, Ambre Sultan is exotic, resinous and menacingly mysterious. Heavy on the incense, it has an almost Middle Eastern/ North African sort of charm about it. Literally oozes sex. Duro by Nasomatto
I once had the pleasure of interviewing founder and ‘nose’ Alessandro Gualtieri. When asked about the inspiration for Duro – a guaranteed panty-dropper of a scent — he proceeded to recount a story about an intimate moment that was interrupted by a spontaneous compliment about his, ahem, man smell. “When someone says they can’t get their nose out of your groin, it’s time to start building a fragrance around it,” he said nonchalantly. And there you have it.
Musc Ravageur by Frédéric Malle
The musk to end all musks. Accented with vanilla, cinnamon and lavender, the juice reeks of grown up ‘sexy time’. This is more of a slow, seductive strip tease than a frenzied fumble in a dark alley.
Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford
Pipe tobacco (as opposed to ashy cigarette smoke) with an almost edible hit of sweet, sweet vanilla. If you (or the person smelling you) has a sweet tooth, this rich scent should push all the right buttons. This stuff only has one volume setting (11!) so spray with restraint.